Post overload and then nothing for several days. Sorry.
I have honestly been procrasting about this post.
Santiago is an important city to learn about,... but really hard to explain.
Santiago is unlike any place I have ever been to or heard of. Although the town itself actually began earlier, the main part of what we see of Santiago today sprouted up in the 9th century where St. James' remains are believed to be. It is considered a holy city in the Catholic church, but what really makes this place fascinating, is the tradition of pilgrimages that grew around this fact.
The reason I came to Santiago was on the recommendation of JC, who actually did this pilgrimmage on his bike last year, so surely he is a better person to comment on this. Hopefuly JC can explain a bit more about what it's like along the route, and how the pilgrims actually do what they need to, but I can explain what I know.
For centuries, pilgrims have been walking to this small town from their respective homes across Europe, seeking a religious cleansing of sorts. Nowadays, it is a trendy practice in Europe, the number of pilgrims increasing from 2,500 pilgrims a year in 1986 to 100,400 in 2006. The numbers are even bigger in the occasional "Holy years."
There is not one exact route that must be followed. In fact, there are many different paths, each created according to the origin of the people--the French Way, the Portuguese Way, and the Northern Way, for example, are all considered under the larger pilgrimmage called The Way of St. James. Regardless of starting point, the end point is the same. The tradition is that after completing this pilgrimmage, the pilgrim must then burn the clothes they wore, as part of the cleansing and new beginning.
Most people finish their pilgrimmage in the main square of Santiago, the focal point of which is the Cathedral, whose life is as long as the city. The building is pretty impressive, even to a passerby, so I can only imagine how it must be as a pilgrim. It has gorgeous iron gates which serve as the gateway to welcome the incoming masses.
This factual stuff is easy to explain. What makes this post so challenging, though, is that there is something that is hard to name here. There is a very special unnamable something that develops in a place where people arrive after such a long journey, most having walked for atleast 10 days. There is a certain feeling of release, accomplishment and vitality here--constantly replenished by the incoming tide of people. This is especially true in the main square, where the pilgrimmage ends. It is constantly filled with people: pilgrims, tourists, students, street performers and vendors.
While most pilgrims finish their walk in Santiago itself, some continue on to meet the shore in a town called Fisterra, another 80 km away. It's name literally means "the finish of the land," as for centuries it was believed to be the end of the world--easy to see why. Even as a driving tourist, it was quite impressive, and very relaxing. Just the kind of place I would want to end a pilgrimmage.... except it is in the middle of nowhere.... How do you get back?
