Montado dos Aviceiros, Madeira Island, Portugal

Phew.

I am finally back in civilization! I feel a bit like a cave person who is just emerging into the modern world.

I am finally back on the map. These last 9 days I have been living TRULY in the rural and remote mountains of Madeira Island, Portugal. Little did I know that I was headed to a place that was only accessible either by ambitious 4WD or by foot. It took over an hour to drive there from the airport in Santa Cruz. The other day I decided to walk to the nearest civilization, which proved to be a arduous hike--over an hour of climbing before you reach anything that resembles humanity. No exaggeration. This place is remote. Here are pictures from my "walk to the store."

My little abode was on a farm called Montado dos Aviceiros (ah-vee-say-rosh), at 1300 m.

The only trails out here are mostly frequented only by the free range goats and cattle.

The place I called home was mostly to host people like myself, who seek to help reintroduce indigenous vegetation back into the valleys. The house was quite large, with many bunks, but NO electricity. Consequently, I lit my nights with gas lamps, and warmed them with a wood stove.



Thankfully, though, there was warm running water, so after a long day´s work, I reveled in being able to take a nice long rinse.

After a rocky adjustment, I have really come to appreciate the isolation up there, and to take refuge in it´s calm and quiet. It is truly uninhabited. As my host was away, I was alone most of the time. A farmhand came a few days a week, but spoke no English, so aside from the chickens, the occasional hikers were my only company. Here´s a great example. Lawrence and Anna were splendid company over lunch. Thanks for sharing your meal with me!

At first this isolation was intimidating, but after some time, I began to really like it! It allowed me space and time for reflection and thought, free from any distractions. Mind you there was NO tv, NO radio or music, NO email, NO telephones... just me, a great book, some sudoku puzzles, my sketchbook, and a lot of work to do.

I prepared all of my own food there, too, even making fresh applesauce from the trees on the grounds! Here´s my kitchen.

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Something I have most come to love about Aviceiros is the magic of nature in its natural form. As I let myself relax, and fall into the swing of things, I found myself looking at things more carefully. I stop and watch longer than I would have before when I was going from one place to another. As I look, I look more carefully. I am realizing that this place is really quite magical. Here are the most magical things:

8. The changeable weather. Being a small island in the middle of the Atlantic, the weather can change at any time, and the clouds move at an alarming rate!

7. The marked contrast between the colors of the landscape--deep rich red of the soil, vibrant green of the broom grass, the purplish hue of the distant peaks, the bleached silver of dead trees caught in a forrest fire ten years ago, and the clear blue and white of the sky.

6. Distant sounds of cow bells ringing from the free range cattle roaming across the hills.

5. Galinhas (gah-lee-nyahs). Have you ever really watched chickens? I mean for an hour or two? They´re really quite remarkable, though simple in their sole purpose to find and consume food. They are really fun to watch. They strut around with these spastic little movements, never sitting still for more than a moment, to the point where I think each and every one has severe ADHD. They, dig, scratch (much like a dog does after using the bathroom), peck and strut, all the while making this delightful little clucking sound. I think I need to stop eating poultry again...

4. The hum of the bees. With a host of hives on the property, the place is constanly alive with the huming of thousands of bees. It´s constant, but reassuring. I have grown to appreciate their company, never bothering me, but always nearby to inspect brightly colored things in search of nectar.

3. Grasshopppers. Out here these spring-loaded tanks are in HUGE numbers. It´s unbelievable. I have never seen so many in all my life. Walking down the trails here, there is a constant spray of these leaping little indistructible insects. The first time I went for a walk, I truly felt like I was in the middle of some Disney movie, and all of them were suddenly going to break out in a catchy little musical number.

2. The birds. With several peaks and endless valleys, there is a constant array of birds floating in the sky. The buzzards circle, soaring in the wind and casting their wistful call out into the air, the finches, flock and swoop, while the Swifts dive and swoop in the most chaotic, but magnificent way. They float, catching pockets of wind, riding gusts up to the summit. They are majestic as they soar and swoop. I love to watch them.

1. The clouds. Becuase of my height in the mountains, every afternoon, clouds roll in from the sea. We can watch them gradually rise into the valley, moving towards us until we are completely immersed in it. It bring cool moist air I find utterly refreshing and casts an odd light on everything, making the once familiar surroundings feel surreal.