Adios Mexico: the Quirky, Funny, and Unforgettable

There is so much more that I would have liked to have said about Mexico...  All those small details that stick in your memory and make a place really unique.  Here are some of those funny, quirky things that I am going to miss about Mexico:

Hay mucho mas que yo quiero decir de Mexico....  Todos las detalles que recordamos que estan uniqa de un lugar.  Aqui estan algunos de estas detalles divertidas, y pequenas que voy a extranar:

descansando un rato...

resting a bit mid day

los baqueros...

the cowboys

las laranjitas...

the lizards...

los coches populares...

the popular cars

los mariachis...
the mariachi bands...

los congrejos de la tierra y del mar...
crabs of the land and sea...

la arena blanca en mis pies...
white sand on my feet...

los cocos (y los locos)...
the coconuts (and the nuts)...

la policia...
the police...

los pesos...

la fruta fresca...
the fresh fruit...

y por supuesto, las liberaciones.  Fernando me mando estas tortugas a liberar en me final dia.  Se fue increible a decir adios y bueno suerte a todos en mis horas finalas.

and of course, the liberations.  Fernando gave me these turtles to release on my last day.  It was incredible to say goodbye and good luck to so many in my last hours.  

Gracias a Mexico y todos mis amigos nuevos.  No puedo olvidar todo que yo aprendi, los amigos que tengo, y las experiencias muy especiales.  No voy a decir adios, porque nos vemos otra vez.  Entonces, hasta luego, y gracias por todo.  Besos.

Thank you Mexico and all of my new friends.  I cannot forget all that I learned, the friends I have, and the special experiences.  I won't say goodbye, because we will see each other again.  So, see you later, and thank you for everything.

Tiburones Ballenas--Whale Sharks

There is a lot of buzz about Whale Sharks these days.  They seem to capture our attention more than most aquatic life.  I'm not sure whether this is because of their size, their spots or merely because they aren't dangerous (they are filter feeders), or who knows what.  Also, due to their filter feeding habits, they spend a large portion of thier time close to the surface of the water, making them easier to spot than most large sea creatures.   

More and more often these days you will meet someone who has swam with whale sharks.  The challenge is that they are migratory, traveling wherever the plankton is thickest.  Depending on the time of year, they are known to congregate in India, Belize, Honduras, Australia, Indonesia, Mozambique, Phillippines, Zanzibar, and of course, off the tip of the Yucatan. 

I have always found sharks very interesting, and the sad fate of these elegant creatures quite distrressing.  There is such a high demand for shark products, and so many countries are without regulations to control the number of sharks killed, that the future doesn't look very good for many species of shark.  Lucky for the whale shark, they are seen as "cute," and have become somewhat of a spokesperson for their kind.

So, of course, when I decided to come to Mexico and work with Fernando, I planned a side trip down to Isla Mujeres to have my chance at seeing this magical creature.  The other day, I got that chance.  About a 45 minute boat ride off shore, and it was easy to see when we'd found a group of sharks.  There were already about 40 boats gathered there.

It was exhilirating to see all of their mouths, dorsal fins and tail fins sticking out of the water.

After marveling at their behavior from above the water, it came my turn to enter the water and see the sharks up close.  (Boats generally rotate groups so that not all guests are in the water at the same time, and so that each group can be supervised by a staffperson.  This is done to try to minimize human impact on their feeding ground, and to keep people from trying to touch the creatures, and many do.)

So in I hopped with my cheap waterproof camera, mask, snorkel and waistbelt lifejacket, which shall henceforth be known as bouyant, slow-me-down device.  After doing a good amount of swimming, and getting admittedly, out of breath, I ended up quite close to a whale shark that was about 15' long. 

I imagine that my eyes were probably the size of dinner plates as I watched it gracefully slide by me.  I tried to memorize every detail--their shape, their color, where they had ridges and where it seemed to be smooth, how they moved, the way thier gills gracefully ease in and out..... I could only imagine what they feel like...  something like wet rubber?  or more like sandpaper?  it was hard to tell.

But nonetheless, I probably spent about an hour in the water, seeing probably 30 sharks all told, sometimes being so close to a shark that I had to move out of thier way just so not to bother them!  For the most part, they seemed to note our presence, and subtly change direction. 

Certainly the more frantic the people around me swam, just trying to get close to one, the more evasive the fish became, so after a while I drifted off a bit by myself, preferring to keep a respectful distance and more mellow pace.  It served me well.  I was was within touching range of probably 15 sharks that day.  But, I did resist the temptation.

All the while I did try to capture these gorgeous creatures with my little camera, but none of these images really do. 

I found the experience to be overall exhilirating, humbling, and awe-inspiring.  I think that anytime we get the chance to reflect on our place in the world, it is time well spent.  I am thankful that I had that chance.  I hope you get that chance, too.  It's really quite remarkable the things that mother nature has created....

As a side note, If you want to take a small step to help protect sharks, sign this petition, by Oceana 2011.  If you want to learn more about how you can help, here are just some of the groups who are also working to help protect sharks: Global Shark Trust, Bite Back, and the Shark Research Institute.

But if you are to only click ONE link, I suggest this one.  It's a list of the victories that have been achieved by people getting involved, signing petitions, and writing letters.

Thanks for reading, now go get wet!

Beaches: Western vs Mexican Style

As I mentioned in my previous post, I have left Teco.   I am now in the well-developed (or over-developed) part of Mexico: Cancun/Isla Mujeres.  The contrast between Teco and here is sooooooo great, that I wanted to share some of my observations with you.  For any of you planning a trip to Mexico, I hope this helps you think a bit more about what kind of experience you would like to have in your visit.

I am sure everyone is acquainted with idyllic beaches, even if only in our imaginations--white, fine grain sand, turquoise water, lapping waves and cool breezes.....  yeah, that.  Picture that.  That's Cancun and the surrounding area.  That's why people come here.   I literally took this photo this morning as I walked around Isla Mujeres (where I am staying, just of the shore of Cancun).

It's the kind of place you can go to to just completely unwind.  The beaches here are mostly maintained by hotels, with staff that clean (raking sea grass and leaves) and set up the beachfront early every morning before guests rise.  Most hotels have beds or cushioned lounge chairs available to guests.  They seem to remain largely empty until mid day to late afternoon. 

If you do decide to utilize these comfy spots, you are treated to waiters who bring cocktails and appetizers.  In this manner you could easily pass the whole day without any interruption; just sun, sand, waves, and your thoughts.  It is certainly very peaceful and quiet, and understandably appealing to travelers seeking a relaxing vacation.

 

Immediately upon entering the Cancun airport, there was a clear difference in this area compared to sweet little Teco.  The first sign, was that I wasn't the only white face for miles.  Gringos abound 'round here.  With all this tourism, comes two things: English and money! 

I had worked so hard on my Spanish, speaking hardly any English for 2 weeks, so I was disappointed to see how easily one could get around using only English.  Because of the pervasiveness of English, most people lead with English, even in the most basic of exchanges.  I am proud of myself though.  My default language here continues to be Spanish.  I haven't flipped the switch back to English.  Regardless of whom I'm speaking to, I still first speak in Spanish--just out of habit and what I consider to be respect for the country I'm visiting.  Even with my intermediate language ability, the locals are appreciative of the effort. 

Also, along with the the high international traffis comes money--lots of it.  This area seems to just be overrun with money.  Everything is new, clean, fancy and otherwise the opposite of Teco.  In stark contrast to the pristine sand, expensive cabanas and designer shops, the Mexican beaches have a lot more color.  It turns out that Tecolutla is quite the tourist destination within Mexico.  My last few days in town were at the beginning of the Mexican vacation season, as school had just ended.  So what were once 4-5 liberations with 5-20 people, now became 6-8 liberations with 60+ people. 

Not only did our guest list increase, but in general, the beaches filled, too.  Most Mexican folks seemed to head to the beach early in the morning (the beach was close to full by 9:30), presumably to snag a spot at one of the beach umbrellas or hammocks under the palapa with drink and food service. 

Once situated, it's a non-stop food fest.  Just about every kind of food imaginable is sold on the beach in one of these bike carts.  Vendors could be seen wheeling them up and down the beach from 8am til 9pm.  You can buy...  cocktails...

coconut sweets...

shaved ice with assorted flavors....

fried food and sea food...

tamales...

oysters on the half shell with lime...

There are also vendors selling chips, nuts and other salty snacks; fresh coconuts to drink the water; cut up fruit with salt, hot sauce and lime; mango on a stick, corn on the cob (slathered with mayonnaise and hot pepper).  That last one, I would have loved to have a photo of, but I had been so excited to see the corn, only to be completely caught off guard when he started to put the thick coating of mayonnaise that I didn't think to grab my camera.  I was too busy trying to quell my gag reflex.

In addition to the plethora of food carts roaming the beach, there are lots of other items for sale too.  You can find bracelets, necklaces, stone carvings....

bags...

bathing suits...

floaties...

and I'm sure there's even more that I've missed.

In terms of beachwear, I notice a big difference between the states and Mexico.  First of all, interestingly, Crocs are essentially the national footwear here.  It seemed as though in Tecolutla, 2 out of every 3 people wore Crocs.

I noticed also that the people here are very careful about sun.  Most people spend the day fully clothed, and it was not uncommon to see a group of people with a liberal application of sunscreen, such as this family.  Additionally, most people spend are camped beneath a palapa or umbrella for additional protection.

Lastly, I definitely noticed a difference in swimming behavior.  It was not uncommon for me to meet people in Tecolutla who didn't know how to swim!  It could be in part due to the shallow grade of the water entry.  You'd have to go quite far to get in past your waist!  I noticed that there is just a lot of sitting, and letting the waves lap over you, such as this group.

Of course not all beach behavior is different...

Though there are a lot of differences between the Western and Mexican style of beach leisure, of course, at it's core, the goal is the same: relax, have fun, and spend time with loved ones.  But I have to say, if forced to choose, personally I'd rather spend time on the colorful, lively shores of Tecolutla, than the comparatively sterile beaches of resorts. 

So at least now you have a snapshot of two totally different styles of beach living, as seen through the eyes of a backpacking traveler.  I suppose you just need to decide what the main purpose of your trip is.  If you just want to kick back and relax, without a care in the world, then any all-inclusive resort in the Caribbean will serve you just fine.  BUT, if you want to travel a bit, experience a new culture, and get a taste of the local flavor, then I highly recommend buying yourself a flight to Mexico City, hopping on a bus, and heading to one of Mexico's local beaches.  But, in the words of the great LeVar Burton: "You don't have to take my word for it!"